- Calculation of the required amount of material
- Choosing lining in the store
- Lining preparation
- Wall preparation
- Fastening the wall paneling
- Video: fixing lining on the markers
Despite the emergence of an increasing number of various finishing materials, "lining" is still "not out of fashion." This material made of natural wood was loved by its environmental friendliness, attractive appearance, the ability to hide irregularities and defects in walls and ceilings, and, importantly, the relatively simple installation. Qualitatively, not only professional builders, but also “home craftsmen” will be able to sheathe the walls or ceiling with wooden clapboard. Of course, for this you need to follow a few simple rules, which we will discuss in this article. So, we lay wooden lining independently.
Calculation of the required amount of material
Before going to the store you need to decide on the required amount of material. If to calculate the required amount of wallpaper it is enough just to divide the wall area by the roll area and in some cases add 10% to the “report”, then when calculating the required amount of lining, the situation is somewhat more complicated.
Lining is available in lengths of 6, 4, 3, 2.7, 2.1 and 2 meters. Ideally, the length of your wall is equal to or slightly less than one of the lining lengths on the market. But what if it is significantly smaller than one of the sizes, but at the same time slightly larger than the other. Let us examine this case by example.
Let's say you need to sheathe a wall 3 meters long 12 centimeters. For this purpose, you can buy a clapboard with a length of 4 meters, but in this case, almost a quarter of the material will be unclaimed (in other words, you will buy clapboards 25% more than you need). Another option is to buy boards with a length of 3 meters and complete each of them with a small length. But, you see, these "shorty" will not look quite nice. Therefore, the best option in this case would be to buy a panel with a length of 2 meters 10 centimeters. Thus, we can close the three rows of lining boards with two boards (one whole and one cut in half) and the amount of waste in this case will be minimal. Proceeding from this, it will be sufficient to divide the height of the room by the height of one lining board and multiply the result by 1.5. That is exactly how many boards 2.1 meters long will be needed for covering this wall.
Example of laying lining "three boards in two rows"
Choosing lining in the store
Unlike wallpaper or, say, plastic panels, materials in which the presence of defects is unlikely, the lining must be carefully chosen. Moreover, the brand of the manufacturer in this case does not play a decisive role at all - even for the same company, two different batches of lining may differ significantly from each other.
Lining on the quality is divided into four main grades: A, B, C and Extra. Variety Extra is the highest quality, so if finances allow, it is better to purchase it and almost guaranteed to save yourself from unpleasant surprises in the form of marriage.
It is better not to buy the wall paneling - you can inspect each board and weed out the marriage before buying it
Grade A is also of rather high quality, but with grades B and C it is better, as they say, “to keep your ears open”. It is better to buy the lining not in the package - so you can inspect each board and even before buying weed out the marriage. But such lining is sold extremely rarely, more often boards are packed in 10 pieces in a transparent film. In this case, to examine each board, unfortunately, will not succeed.
More often boards are packed on 10 pieces in a transparent film
Although, to tell the truth, boards completely unsuitable for use are extremely rare. Even with one or two knots, the board can be used to make short lengths for covering window slopes or, say, a door jamb.
But the ends of the wall panel, visible through the film, it makes sense to inspect quite carefully. If you notice chips or knots on them, then it is better to put such packages aside.
Lining preparation
Before laying the wall paneling must be prepared in a certain way. First, you need to inspect the boards for the presence of knots and cracks, and if they are found, either lay these boards aside, or (if there is any “butt” material) eliminate the defects by cleaning or filling the problem areas. And, secondly, the wall paneling should be allowed to “acclimatize” indoors. In other words, it should reach room temperature, because otherwise (especially if the material was stored outside) after laying the board can “lead”. To do this, simply lay the boards in several layers, making between them a strip of timber.
Before laying the wall paneling must be prepared in a certain way.
Some people think that at the preparatory stage, the wall paneling should be treated with antiseptic agents, but, as practice shows, it will be enough to apply the antiseptic on the finished walls, so this stage of preparation can be completely skipped.
Wall preparation
The preparation of walls for laying the wall paneling can be considered the most crucial stage, on which the final result largely depends. In most cases, except for those when the wall paneling is packed directly on the wooden walls, to install it on the walls, it is necessary to mount the sheathing from the timber.
To install the wall paneling on the walls, it is necessary to mount the sheathing from the timber
The best thing for this purpose is suitable timber section of 40 to 20 millimeters.
You can not pre-level the walls before laying the wall paneling, but it is necessary to set the crate over one level.
To do this, the first step is to determine the most prominent section on each wall. Make it simple enough. Under the ceiling, at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the wall, a cord is tensioned, onto which a thread with a load, which is a plumb line, is hung with a wire hook. Further, the plumb moves along the wall. Controlling the distance between the plumb and different points of the wall, it will be possible to determine the most prominent section. All further measurements will have to "dance" from this place.
On the most prominent section of the wall is mounted a small piece of timber, from which the crate will be mounted. From this "beacon" a thread is being pulled parallel to the planned direction of laying the lining. After that, in the extreme points of the wall (near the floor and ceiling with vertical installation or against opposite walls with horizontal) two support bars are installed. Consider that the front part of the beam must clearly coincide with the level of the lighthouse, so that if necessary, small gaskets of the required thickness are installed between the bar and the wall.
If necessary, small gaskets of the required thickness are installed between the bar and the wall.
Gaskets can be installed only in those places in which the timber will be attached to the wall with dowel-nails.
When the extreme bars are fixed (do not forget to check them with a level) between them you can tighten another thread, which will facilitate the installation of the remaining bearing elements of the batten.
Subsequent bars are attached to the wall at a distance of about one meter from each other. In this case, as is the case with the extreme bars, in case of need, additional gaskets are placed under them. If one row of lining will be formed of two boards, be sure to install the timber at the junction.
Fastening the wall paneling
If the crate is installed correctly, the installation of the wall panel will not be difficult. The only question that needs to be solved before installing it is where to start laying the lining and whether to use the level when installing the first board.
To answer this question, it is necessary to determine whether the ceiling (for horizontal installation) or the wall (for vertical installation) in the room corresponds to the level. If they are smooth, then no problem - you can start the installation from the top as well as from the bottom (or from any angle), and the first board is mounted strictly on the level. But if the ceiling is a bit “littered” in one of the sides or one of the corners noticeably “mows down” (this situation is often found in the houses of the old building), then you should not lay the lining on the level in any way. In this case, standing boards only underline the curvature of the room, and in an uneven corner you will have to cut the last of the boards “at an angle.”
In order to hide the unevenness of the room as much as possible, the lining is laid as follows. The first board is fastened right next to a curved corner or uneven ceiling, and all subsequent boards are installed with a slight bias on one side, until the next board “rises in level”. Thus, a small slope of the boards will be almost imperceptible.
To accurately determine how to skew the boards, you need to measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling at opposite corners of the room (or the length of the floor and ceiling between opposite corners for vertical installation) and divide the difference between the obtained values by the number of boards that will be laid down . The resulting value will be the distance that you need to "fill up" each of the boards lining on the longer side of the installation. If this value is less than 2-3 millimeters, you can repeat the calculation using half the number of boards as a divider. In this case, you "go to the level" in the middle of the wall.
The first board lining fastened "comb" to the corner. It can be fixed with the help of small studs, which are driven in “to flush” (in the final finishing, it is better to use a blunt closer) or with the help of special clips — gluers.
It is possible to fix lining by means of small carnations which are hammered in "to flush"
Nails lining fixing scheme
The ends of the first board, as, indeed, all the others are recommended to be fixed “in the open.” This will strengthen the structure, and the nail heads will still be hidden under the baseboard or ceiling molding.
All subsequent boards are laid with a comb into the groove of the previous one, thereby hiding nail heads or fastening clips.
If the last board is wider than the space left on the wall or ceiling, it must be cut with an electric jigsaw. Also with the help of a jigsaw, projections are made in the boards that fall on the door and window openings.
Video: fixing lining on the markers
You can learn more about the technology of attaching the wall panel to the markers by watching the following video.
When the wall paneling is laid, it remains to close all corners and joints with special decorative corners and cover the walls with “stain” and varnish.
After laying the vagano, you need to close all corners and joints with special decorative corners.
Laying lining may seem complicated only at first glance. The main thing is to set the crate qualitatively, after which the work will go “like clockwork”. Good luck with your repair!
Born in 1977 in the city of Donetsk, Ukraine. He graduated from the Donetsk Polytechnic Institute (now DonSTU) with a degree in Automated Control Systems. He worked at the Donetsk Metallurgical Plant. In 1997 he moved to Moscow, where for 8 years he worked in several construction teams. Rate this article: Share with your friends!